Nice log

Was on a roll today then was called out. Money is useful and is good for getting cider, but it doesn't advance the art. I had some lovely dark brown semi opaque glass which was perfect for the log, but when cut and viewed at a distance, it wasn't quite right; it needed more contrast with the dark red legs. So we re-cut the log using a lighter shade, but kept the bottom strip to make a shadow and add a bit of depth. Happy with it now, it almost looks like a real log. At a distance both his tail and the log look textured and three dimensional. I'm out on the job Thursday and Friday so won't finish his face till the weekend. 

Stained glass Red Panda

Spent most of the morning re-shaping his full back leg. It was really beginning to grate on me, looking more Long John Silver than cute little tree panda. Unfortunately the very dark red (almost black) glass, whilst being the perfect colour, is expensive and difficult to cut. It really only wants to go in straight lines and I only had enough left to make one more piece, so took my time over it and used the grinder more than usual. I think you will agree though that the time was well worth the effort and the colours just about perfect. 

Red Panda

First cuts made and he is looking quite good. The colours are just about right, the glass is very characterful with lots is seeds (bubbles) and a gentle texture which whilst not mimicking fur, breaks up the light well enough to "fuzz" it a bit. We are using large bold shapes for the body which should help to focus attention on the detail in his face. The trick will be to get his expression right.  Glass pieces with multiple compound curves are very time consuming to complete, requiring many small individual cuts to complete just one facet. It then needs careful grinding to remove sharp edges and leave a good surface for the copper foil to bond to. Should have most of the glass cut tomorrow. 

On hold

Sadly encountered problems with the window frame for the sweet pea transom light so have had to put the project temporarily on hold. It has put me 6 weeks behind schedule so must crack on. 

The next task is a sun catcher depicting a Red Panda. A bit of research reveals a very cute little animal full of character if a little lazy and laid back. Found a terrific photo of one lying on a branch, did a quick sketch a put it to the client; she loves it. 

I need to go and find the right glass though, I have many different reds in stock but none "rusty" enough, and I need three shades of it. 

Photos are the initial sketch and a close up of its face on the cartoon. 

Next project

OK then, next project is a transom light (the window above a door) for a very nice lady in East London. The house is late Victorian, South facing and traditionally decorated. The only brief was fairly light, traditional and incorporating pink sweet peas. The initial proof sketch is below, going with a fine ruby border, stylised leafs and pretty flowers. 

The measurements are a little odd, there is a 5cm difference on the diagonals (which usually means the frame has moved and is "out of square"). So to accurately draft the borders, I use a string computer with map pins at the correct distance for the edges, then move the top corners until the diagonals correspond. Simples. Just waiting now for confirmation of the angles from the client before going firm on the cartoon. 

Fitting windows

My one sop to modern materials is when fitting windows. I tend to shy away from using conventional putty on external and opening units, using a silicone based sealant instead. The trouble with putty is that it sets rock hard, which transmits shock and movement directly to the glass, and it does not weather well and will crack over time. The first two photos below show a wooden frame and a cast iron frame, both where the putty has failed. In the wood frame water ingress has rotted the frame, and you can see rust in the iron frame. If left untreated the rust will blister and crack the 200 year old glass. 

Silicone on the other hand forms a permanent (but easily removable should you need to) waterproof bond, which remains flexible enough to absorb shock and movement. The bond is strong enough to hold the glass by itself, but I always use a second mechanical fixing as a failsafe measure. Copper tacks are best as they can easily be bent onto the glass/lead to secure it and will not corrode as easily in damp timber or react with the tannins in oak. 

Lead lights installed

After a week for the putty to set hard and a good vigorous polishing with grate blacking, it's time to fit. The old glass came out easy enough and the new ones fitted like a dream. Each one was set onto a bead of silicone sealant and secured with small copper nails into the jambs and bent over the came. A further bead of sealant was then run around the frame and hey presto. I will explain this fixing method later, but it looks absolutely fantastic in situ.